Nearly ninety percent of Yangon’s population are devout believers in Theravada Buddhism, whose teachings revolve around the Four Noble Truths: dukkha (suffering, discontent), samudaya (cause of dukkha), nirodha (ending of dukkha) and magga (the Noble Eightfold Path to reach the end of dukkha). Yangon’s devotion is found in numerous temples and places of worship that sit in every city corner; Their day starts early, and it is just shy of sunrise when the streets start to come alive.
Shwedagon Pagoda
A 99-metre tall wonder, this magnificent pagoda is inlaid with over 5000 diamonds and 2000 rubies. Its spire dominates Yangon’s skyline, flaunting a history of 2500 years that can be seen from various parts of the city. Infamous for its extravagant architecture, the Shwedagon Pagoda has walls plated with gold and stretches over an expanse of a hundred acres, with the main building flanked by an abundance of other temples, stupas and colourful structures. To touch upon its many nooks and crannies, it would take at least two hours to appreciate the full wonders of this complex. Well-known as one of the most sacred pagodas, the Shwedagon Pagoda is a site of great significance to Buddhists around the world – it enshrines eight hairs from the Buddha’s head.
Sule Pagoda
Rumour has it that the Sule Pagoda exceeds the Shwedagon in age, although that has yet to be verified. Nonetheless, this ancient temple has stood Yangon’s sun and wear since before the 15th century, and is one of the city’s oldest. Sitting right in the heart of central Yangon, the Sule Pagoda is the focal point of the city’s bustle – an old world relic standing out amongst the modern buildings that have developed around it over the years. In addition to being culturally significant, the temple was also where numerous political events and protests were held, thus contributing to the local identity. The surrounding neighbourhood makes up Yangon’s busy downtown: All around, shops are in abundance, offering services such as astrology and palmistry; Within walking distance are Yangon City Hall and Maha Bandula Park, making it painless to incorporate them into an afternoon schedule.
Kyauktan Yele Pagoda
Off the typical agenda would be a visit to the Kyauktan Yele Pagoda. About an hour’s drive south of central Yangon will bring visitors to the ticketing booth, where they are handed ticket stubs printed with the cryptic instructions “for boat”. Questions are answered upon descending a short flight of stairs: wooden rowboats line the shore; In the near distance, the pagoda beckons from its seat in the middle of a small island that rises from the river. Directly translated to “pagoda in mid-stream on a laterite reef”, the Yele Pagoda at Kyauktan is a fascinating kept wonder away from the city. On the pagoda platform is a temple that dates back 2000 years, and around the complex, more lavishly decorated structures dot the grounds, wood intricately carved to detailed perfection. While it’s not as eye-catching as the Shwedagon, the Yele Pagoda announces little brilliances in its own right. Spend half a day on this island, explore the temples and purchase rice puffs to feed the fish in the river with – there’s nothing that makes up the experience more than its journey.
Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda
Housing a reclining Buddha 65 metres long and 16 metres high, it’s no surprise that visitors often find themselves awestruck when they step inside the Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda. This massive structure was first constructed in 1907, but due to aesthetic flaws, completely rebuilt in 1966 with an extension of 6 metres. Largest in Yangon and one of the largest in the world, the reclining Buddha wears an expression of tranquillity: its eyes are made of glass and lips painted deep red. The crown adorning the Buddha’s head is heavy with diamonds, rumoured to worth $35,000. Strolling down the length of its body, stop at its feet; The soles are embellished in gold and red, and the 108 symbols, known as lakshanas, are images detailing the characteristics of the previous Buddha. All around, incense is burning – it’s usually not packed with tourists, but locals praying to a shrine dedicated to their day of birth in the week.
Swe Taw Myat Pagoda
With its imposing silhouette, the Swe Taw Myat Pagoda is a gold and white building of perfect symmetry. Alternatively known as the Buddha Tooth Relic Pagoda, its name derived from its purpose: In 1994, a sacred Buddha Tooth Relic was brought over from China and the pagoda was built to enshrine it along with its two ivory copies. For forty five days, the tooth was enshrined in the pagoda for the people to pay homage to. Today, one of the ivory copies still remains within the pagoda. Unlike most other relics which usually do not see the light of day, the tooth sits in a glass case topped with a miniature tiered Pyatthat (multi-staged roof with an odd number of tiers between three to seven, a known feature in Burmese Buddhist and imperial architecture) and encircled with small jade Buddhas. The interior is a stunning fanfare– the ceilings, columns and structures are all painted with striking gold. At each of the pagoda’s four entrances, a pair of white and gold Chinthe (mythological creature resembling a lion) stand guard, but welcome visitors inside.
An important thing to note while visiting temples in Yangon, and throughout Myanmar, is that shoes are not allowed in these places of worship. The conservative dress code requires visitors to keep their shoulders and knees covered; A common workaround is to carry a scarf which can be knotted around the waist or used to cover one’s feet. Yangon’s pagodas are most beautiful in the gold of dawn and dusk, with the gentle light touching their spires – visit in the early mornings or evenings, and admire these structures in the absence of sweltering afternoon heat.